I wonder if your CT clamp was the right way around !!!
The key value to look at is “Iboost Power”
it’s been really sunny today - so have been pulling 2.6KW without issue
When it’s sunny tomorrow and your batteries are full etc and you are 100% sure your exporting - thats when you need to log into the “ESP webpage” ( or look on the display on the iBoost itself ) and see if any power is being diverted.
as a test though - have you pressed the “Manual Boost START” button, and then see how much power is being used… it might be your heating element ?
Most immersions are 3KW and the iBoost does a Maximum of 3KW, As you can see I have pressed Manual Boost and now it’s using 2,682 W of power
I just pressed, and the import figure increased briefly to 64w , then went negative again and reports 'Water tank Hot
As I’m sitting here I am watching it fluctuate between - 25w and -100w.to plus 14w…
We haven’t noticed any problem with our hot water so i assume it is working. I will do some further investigation..
Check the wiring on the immersion - it’s starting to look like either the temperature sensor in the immersion heater has failed, or the actual immersion heating element has gone.
I am assuming you normally heat the water via a Gas Boiler or something ? - which is why you still have hot water.
For it to say “Water HOT” normally means that the water is at 60c - which is really hot ( most electric immersions are set at factory to 60C )
the ‘iboost import’ number is mirroring the grid power.. so it may just be a confusing naming scenario, or the setting may be wrong
So - have you confirmed yet that your Immersion Heating element actually works yet ?
not yet… I need to disable the oil heating first, to see if the immersion actually kicks in. Also the settings on the inverter I have changed currently to disable grid export - which if I’m right in turn will mean that the iboost does not come on, or the automatic ev charging (not sure if this works yet - I downloaded some automation but i haven’t seen it running)
Just press the
it will then try to heat the water for 15 mins… - if you don’t see the “Power” use 2KW or more then it’s not working
Yes I keep seeing the power ramp up momentarily, and then it reports ‘water tank hot’ which it is… thats why i want to see what happens when we turn off the hot water from the oil boiler so it should rely on the immersion. At the moment you can imagine the iboost would stop heating if the water temp is actually up to temp already.
Hi, this looks great, thank you for posting about it.
I’m not very experienced with electronics but it looks within my capabilities! What has confused me is the photo: in the GitHub project page it describes 6 connections to the C1101 board and the photo shows 6 but what’s going on on the other side (the D1 mini)? I can see 7 jumper leads and the blue and pink ones don’t end up at the C1101 board. What am I missing?
Thanks.
The MISO you have to 3 wires then wire them together - so D6 and D2 ( red wire ) on the ESP device are connected together - and then a single wire form there to the CC1101
I then put it into a WAGO box to protect it.
Hi, First post, so please be gentle!
Sorry to be a complete numptie, but I am struggling to tie up the pins on my ESP32 with what is shown on the guide linked to in the first post on this thread. My AZ-Delivery ESP32 pin out guide can be seen at https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1509/1638/files/D1_Mini_ESP32_-_pinout.pdf?v=1604068668 .
3.3V & GND are fine. 
Should I take it that MOSI and MISO are IO23 & IO19 respectively? Does the fact that they are shown in bright green / VSPI bus make any difference to me?
That then leaves D2, D8 & D5 - where to connect these to?
Thanks very much!
haffle.
W Sussex
Hmmm, on further reading it looks like I should have RTFM and bought an ESP8266 and not an ESP32, and then the pin outs would have matched! Ho Hum - more soldering tomorrow 
This all looks fantastic and I am happy to buy the bits and start soldering, but do the boards need power and does it come from a small USB power supply (i can sort that). My question is, do i need to open the I boost + and make any connections, and if the modules detect the “signals”, how do I get them into my Raspberry pi running Home Assistant - sorry for being dumb
it is powered by a standard USB ( Micro ) port - and NO you don’t need to do anything to the iBoost ( it’s just a radio signal ), and if you use the “ESPHome Builder” in Home Assistant - then it basically adds it all in automatically.
but do buy the exact hardware !!
Thanks. I will give it a go
I have ordered all the bits, done the soldering on the small boards that have arrived, installed ESP home into Home Assistant.
I have a Solar I boost + (plus). I am assuming that this will work.
Can anyone please confirm.
Thanks Steve
100% Should work - just give it a go 
Again all. Please excuse my ignorance, but I have tried to follow the GitHub guide to get everything installed on HA, but are there some simple steps someone could please post.
I have ESP Home Device Builder now installed on HA as an add on, but where is the iboost.yaml located that I have to run esphome run iBoost.yaml “from the command line”, and how do I do that? Thanks Steve
